Polynucleotides — An Experienced Clinician's Honest and Cautious Assessment

A treatment that arrived with considerable hype. Here is what the science actually says — and what one clinician's early experience has shown.

This is an abridged version of a Perspectives blog on the subject.

A sceptic's starting point

When polynucleotides arrived in UK aesthetic practice, they came with the kind of social media enthusiasm that makes any experienced clinician pause and reach for their scepticism.

I started using them almost hoping to confirm what I suspected; that this was another treatment whose promise would not survive contact with real patients. The early results gave me pause. They were better than I expected. But I am not yet ready to set my scepticism down entirely.

What they actually are

Polynucleotides are purified DNA fragments derived predominantly from salmon sperm; biocompatible with human tissue despite the eyebrow-raising origin.

When injected into the skin, they do not fill or volumise. They work at a cellular level, stimulating fibroblast activity, promoting collagen and elastin synthesis, and supporting tissue repair through a receptor-mediated signalling mechanism genuinely distinct from other biostimulators.

What the evidence shows

The research base is growing but still developing. What the existing literature supports consistently is an improvement in skin hydration, texture, elasticity, and overall dermal quality following a course of treatment.

The area around the eyelids and generalised skin quality improvement appear to have the strongest evidence base. Given that most existing treatments for the lower eyelids are limited by the delicate nature of the skin in that area, polynucleotides may prove to be very useful there.

My early clinical experience reflects this; the texture and luminosity changes in particular have been more marked than I anticipated.

The question I keep asking

The durability of those improvements is where the literature is least satisfying. Most published data suggests results last six to nine months after a completed course, with some evidence of cumulative benefit from repeated cycles.

Whether that holds consistently across a broader patient population and different product formulations is not yet established to my satisfaction. Not a reason to dismiss the treatment. A reason to keep asking the question.

What this means for you

Polynucleotides suit patients whose primary concern is skin quality rather than volume; those wanting improved texture, luminosity, and hydration that is difficult to achieve through other means. They are not a substitute for structural treatment where structure is what is needed.

The honest summary

Polynucleotides are promising, scientifically credible, and worthy of serious clinical consideration. The jury on long-term durability is still deliberating. I will update my view as the evidence develops.

To find out more or to arrange a consultation, please visit our contact page or get in touch using the email or telephone links below..